Hydroponics growing media (Coconut Fiber)

Coconut fiber is rapidly becoming one of the most popular growing mediums in the world. In fact it may soon be THE most popular. It is the first totally "organic" growing medium that offers top performance in hydroponic systems. Coconut fiber is essentially a waste product of the coconut industry, it is the powdered husks of the coconut itself.
There are many advantages - it maintains a larger oxygen capacity than rockwool, yet also has superior water holding ability than rockwool which is a real advantage for hydroponic systems that have intermittent watering cycles.
Coconut fiber is also high in root stimulating hormones and offers some protection against root diseases including fungus infestation. Dutch growers have found that a mixture of 50% coconut fiber and 50% expanded clay pellets is the perfect growing medium.
One word of caution about coconut fiber, you must be careful when you purchase coconut fiber. There is a commonly available, lower grade of coconut fiber that is high in sea-salt and is very fine grained. This lower grade coconut fiber will lead to disappointing results when used in a hydroponic system.

Hydroponics growing media (Perlite)

Good old perlite! It's been around for years, mainly for use as a soil additive to increase aeration and draining of the soil. Perlite is a mined material, a form of volcanic glass that when rapidly heated to more than 1600 deg. f. it pops much like popcorn as the water vaporizes and makes countless tiny bubbles.
Perlite is one of the best hydroponic growing mediums around. Used by itself or as a mixture with other mediums. Perlite is commonly used with vermiculite ( a 50 - 50 mix is a very popular medium), and is also one of the major ingredients of soiless mix's. perlite has good wicking action which makes it a good choice for wick-type hydroponic systems. Perlite is also relatively inexpensive.
The biggest drawback to perlite is that it doesn't retain water well which means that it will dry out quickly between waterings. The dust from perlite is bad for your health so you should wear a dust mask when handling it.

Hydroponics growing media (Vermiculite)

Vermiculite is another mined material. In it's natural state it resembles mica rock, but when quickly heated it expands due to the generation of interlaminar steam.
Vermiculite is most frequently used in conjunction with perlite as the two complement each other well. Vermiculite retains moisture (about 200% - 300% by weight), and perlite doesn't so you can balance your growing medium so that it retains water and nutrients well but still supplies the roots with plenty of oxygen. A 50/50 mix of vermiculite and perlite is a very popular medium for drip type hydroponic systems as well as ebb and flow systems. Vermiculite is inexpensive.
The major drawback of vermiculite is that it retains too much water to be used by itself. It can suffocate the roots of plants if used straight.

Growing media (Rockwool)

Rockwool is a horticultural growing media made from the natural ingredients Basalt rock and Chalk. These are then melted at 1600° C into a lava which is blown into a large spinning chamber, which pulls the lava into fibers like "cotton candy." If you have ever visited a volcano you have probably seen these fibers flying around in the air surrounding the volcano. Once the fibers are spun they are then compressed into a mat which is then cut into slabs and cubes. The rockwool granulates are just bales of uncompressed fibers. The process is very efficient, producing 37 cubic foot of wool from 1 cubic foot of rocks. Since rockwool is born in fire it renders the product chemically and biologically inert and creates the ideal growing medium for hydroponics. Since its development in Denmark in the early 1970's, rockwool has become the major vegetable and flower production medium throughout Europe and North America.

Horticultural Rockwool growing media is primarily available in two general formats. First, as rigid slabs, blocks, and cubes known as "bonded" products because the fibers are held together with a "gluing" or binding agent which renders them stiff and brittle. This is the primary format for the vegetable and cut flower industries. Secondly, rockwool is available as a highly refined and consistent hydrophilic or hydrophobic granulate which is basically water absorbent or water repellent. This format can be used as a component in various peat moss based soilless media or for ground bed incorporation to improve the tilth of heavy clay or light sandy soils.

Flood/Drain system

A plastic tray filled with plants (usually in pots), on top of a reservoir filled with nutrient solution. A pump in the reservoir is connected to the bottom of the tray. When the pump turns on, the tray fills with water. When the pump turns off, the water runs back down through the pump into the reservoir. The tray must be above the top of the reservoir so gravity pulls the water back down. An overflow fitting must be added in the tray to regulate the depth of the flood. When the water level reaches the top of the overflow, it runs back into the reservoir. The pump can be turned on with a timer. A system like this usually waters 3-4 times a day.

Drip system

Drip systems can use a number of different types of containers but the operation is usually very similar. The nutrient solution is stored in a reservoir. A pump in the reservoir has tube connected to it that runs up to the base of the plant. The tube may branch off to smaller tubes feeding many plants. It works just like a drip irrigation system in your yard. In fact, you can use most of the parts available for drip irrigation systems like drippers, stakes, tubing and fittings. If the nutrient solution is going to be recovered, the containers should be above the reservoir so gravity can do the return work for you. If not, the system becomes more complex with another pump to return the water. Of course you don't need to recover the nutrient solution at all, it could just run off. This may not be the best setup if it's in your extra bedroom. Some drip systems run continuously, others are on a timer.

Aeroponic system

An aeroponic system looks like an NFT system but works a bit different. The plants are growing in small plastic baskets that are placed in holes cutout along the top of a tube. The roots grow down into the tube. The tube is filled with water by a much smaller tube running along the inside of the large tube. The small tube has holes cut every 6 inches or so to let the water come out. At the end of the large tube is an overflow just like the Flood/drain system that regulates the depth of the water. The large tube remains half-filled with water. The trick with this system is to have a high-pressure pump so the water coming out of the small tube sprays, oxygenating the water in the large tube. The pump should run all the time.

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) system

The NFT system starts like a drip system, it has a reservoir with a pump. The pump has a tube that branches off to smaller tubes to feed the plants. But, the plants are watered at the roots. The plants are setup in troughs like rain gutters. The trough has a cover with round or square holes cut out for each plant. The holes are spaced correctly for the crop. The plants are growing in small plastic baskets about 2 inches across, filled with rock or rockwool. The baskets are placed in the holes in the cover of the trough. Some systems don't use baskets just a cube of rockwool or similar growing material. The water comes in the trough at one end and drains out the other. Most of the roots will fill the bottom of the trough. The goal with this system is to get just enough water flowing all the time to keep the roots wet and also keep them exposed to the air to get the extra Oxygen. It works quite well when setup and maintained correctly.

General Hydroponics Background

Hydroponics is an ancient technique that dates back approximately 2,600 years. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon built by King Nebuchadnezzar, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, are considered to be the first application of hydroponics in recorded history.
Some of the gardens in Egypt and China, as well as the floating gardens of the Aztecs known as chinampas1, are other examples of hydroponic agriculture. The chinampas were the most efficient system of water culture known at
the time.
However, it was Dr. William Frederick Gericke, of the University of California, who coined the term hydroponics from the Greek hydro (water) and ponos (work), or “working
with water”. Moreover, he was the first person to carry out large-scale commercial experiments in which he successfully grew tomatoes, lettuce and other vegetables, as well as
roots and tubers such as beetroot, horseradish, carrots and potatoes. He later expanded into flowers, fruit, and
ornamental plants.

The first commercial application of this technique occurred during World War II, between 1939 and 1945, prompted by
the need to provide vegetables to the troops in places where the arid soil, excessive heat (such as in Guadalupe) or excessive cold (such as in Greenland) prevented normal cultivation using soil. After the end of the War, the American troops occupying Japan largely resolved the problem of obtaining fresh vegetables by resorting to this technique.
In the 1960s and 1970s, in response to various problems associated with soil (water supply, plant nutrition, lack of
certain components that are essential for some crops, the increase in pests and diseases), horticultural research in the developed countries focused on the search for other mediums or alternatives (substrates) that could replace soil.
In Latin America, the possibilities of adapting this technique to meet the population’s various needs are
increasing day by day, and its application stimulates the creativity of people of all ages as they try to achieve greater
and better results.

Nominal EC Values for Hydroponic Crops

Below is a list of crops with the ideal EC value the crop is grown at in a hydroponic system for optimum performance.
Although there are ideal EC values for each plant type, this does not mean that a range of plants, all technically requiring different strength nutrients, cannot be grown in a home situation together.
The grower simply lists the range of EC values and picks an average value. For most home systems this value is between 1.2EC and 2.0EC depending upon the requirements of the predominant crop types being grown.

CROP	EC VALUE		CROP	EC VALUE
African Violet	1.0 - 1.2		Lavender	1.0 - 1.4
Asparagus	1.4 - 1.8		Leek	1.6 - 2.0
Avocado Pear	1.8 - 2.6		Lettuce - Fancy	0.3 - 0.8
Balm	1.0 - 1.4		Lettuce - Iceburg	0.6 - 1.4
Banana	1.8 - 2.2		Melons	1.0 - 2.2
Basil	1.0 - 1.4		Mint	1.0 - 1.4
Beans	1.8 - 2.5		Mustard / Cress	1.2 - 2.4
Beetroot	1.4 - 2.2		Onion	1.8 - 2.2
Blueberry	1.8 - 2.0		Parsley	0.8 - 1.8
Borage	1.0 - 1.4		Passion fruit	1.6 - 2.4
Broccoli	1.4 - 2.4		Pea	1.4 - 1.8
Brussel Sprout	1.8 - 2.4		Pumpkin	1.4 - 2.4
Cabbage	1.4 - 2.4		Radish	1.2 - 2.2
Capsicum	2.0 - 2.7		Rhubarb	1.6 - 2.0
Carrot	1.4 - 2.2		Roses	1.8 - 2.6
Cauliflower	1.4 - 2.4		Sage	1.0 - 1.6
Celery	1.5 - 2.4		Spinach	1.8 - 3.5
Chives	1.2 - 2.2		Silver beet	1.8 - 2.4
Cucumber	1.6 - 2.4		Squash	1.8 - 2.4
Dwarf Roses	1.6 - 2.6		Strawberry	1.8 - 2.5
Eggplant	1.8 - 2.2		Thyme	1.2 - 1.6
Endive	0.8 - 1.5		Tomato	2.2 - 2.8
Fennel	1.0 - 1.4		Turnip, Parsnip	1.8 - 2.4
Kohlrabi	1.8 - 2.2		Watercress	0.4 - 1.8

Do it yourself DIY Hydroponics Systems

Do it yourself DIY Hydroponics Systems

Many hydroponics enthusiasts like to build their own hydroponic systems so they can customize each part for their individual growing needs. One of our forum members posted some great information and pictures of his setup that we wanted to share on the blog.

Cutting holes for the plants in rubbermaid containers

I came up with the compass cutter from a tool I purchases to draw 6 foot radius circles for a stained glass church window I made. The tool is designed to hold a center point pin and lead that is used for a Schaffer mechanical pencil. The tool fits on a yard stick I modified it by taking the lead out and replacing it with a finishing nail sharpened on the end used to score repeatedly the rubber maid lid till it cut 1/2 way through, then it was scored from the other side till it caused the cut out to separate from the lid.

The rubber maid material is easy to score like this – but if you try to use a drill, spade bit or hole saw it will fail, and rip the rubber. It might be possible to hole saw it if the lid is sandwiched between plywood to this catching and ripping. Test holes after each cut. I give the holes a light sanding to remove any left over debris from the cut.

A spade bit the one that has tabs on the outer edge of the bit that cuts in about 1/32″ almost and the thickness of the material. The thickness is about 1/8″. So if you cut a little from the front, then a little from the backside it will produce a perfect hole and not rip the container and set you back a few bucks. Note there was no material removed from the center of the hole, be gentle.

Drainage Hole Cutting

Pictured below is a very handy fitting for connecting a leak proof drainage hole. Make sure you have 2 rubber washers on the inside of a container with a curved surface – this aids the seal on the curved surface. I apply a little bead of silicon to the surfaces that will come in contact with the inside surfaces, this includes between the washers. On the barbed x thread x flange fitting the big white fitting here – for lack of a name…I will place some silicon then add the rubber washer. Use a slot screw driver to push the washer up against the silicone surface gently – then silicon the second rubber then attach the drain fitting to the storage device pail -bucket – etc. Remember the rubber fittings against the flange go on the inside of the pail…Watch it closely as you tighten the nut on this fitting – the silicon will have a lubricant affect and over tightening may cause the washer to slip out – you can tighten more if needed when the silicon is set.

Piping and Aeration

Installing the aeration system under the lids in the chamber of the roots, I did not want to use metal – In this system — there will be no contact of metal with solution period… So I came up with a push fitting using the plastic pex fittings with pex pipe – these are very cheap for me so I use them.

First if you put a pex (from now on it is assumed plastic) fitting in to the pipe it is not very snug. So if you want it more snugger…lol… you will need to wrap it with Teflon tape – BUT if you push it in to pex pipe it rips the Teflon tape and the seal is compromised. So – use a means by which to camber or bevel the inside edge of the pex pipe, I use the yellow reamer. I use the reamer to bevel the inside edge of the pipes to allow the Teflon taped fittings to insert in to the pex pipe with little damage to the seal. A little lubricant is ok like a very very very tiny amount twisted on to the tape on the fitting will encourage the seal but very very little is needed…It never hurts to expose the pipe to hot water to make it pliable.

Nutrient Pump

The nutrient pump in an old Wine Kitz primary fermenter, or just call it a 5 gallon bucket… After the plug and 3/4″ pex and an air hose is feed through the hole in the lid there is little room for anything else. There is a shut off valve on the riser off the pump I am going to use it for discharging the reservoir. In the yard there is a drop in elevation of at least 4 feet with out setting up a level and transom so siphon action should help speed this up, I will probably put in a shut off on the feed side to assist flushing out the nutrient solution every 10 to 14 days.

Do it yourself DIY Hydroponics Systems

Many hydroponics enthusiasts like to build their own hydroponic systems so they can customize each part for their individual growing needs. One of our forum members posted some great information and pictures of his setup that we wanted to share on the blog.

Cutting holes for the plants in rubbermaid containers

I came up with the compass cutter from a tool I purchases to draw 6 foot radius circles for a stained glass church window I made. The tool is designed to hold a center point pin and lead that is used for a Schaffer mechanical pencil. The tool fits on a yard stick I modified it by taking the lead out and replacing it with a finishing nail sharpened on the end used to score repeatedly the rubber maid lid till it cut 1/2 way through, then it was scored from the other side till it caused the cut out to separate from the lid.

The rubber maid material is easy to score like this – but if you try to use a drill, spade bit or hole saw it will fail, and rip the rubber. It might be possible to hole saw it if the lid is sandwiched between plywood to this catching and ripping. Test holes after each cut. I give the holes a light sanding to remove any left over debris from the cut.

A spade bit the one that has tabs on the outer edge of the bit that cuts in about 1/32″ almost and the thickness of the material. The thickness is about 1/8″. So if you cut a little from the front, then a little from the backside it will produce a perfect hole and not rip the container and set you back a few bucks. Note there was no material removed from the center of the hole, be gentle.

Drainage Hole Cutting

Pictured below is a very handy fitting for connecting a leak proof drainage hole. Make sure you have 2 rubber washers on the inside of a container with a curved surface – this aids the seal on the curved surface. I apply a little bead of silicon to the surfaces that will come in contact with the inside surfaces, this includes between the washers. On the barbed x thread x flange fitting the big white fitting here – for lack of a name…I will place some silicon then add the rubber washer. Use a slot screw driver to push the washer up against the silicone surface gently – then silicon the second rubber then attach the drain fitting to the storage device pail -bucket – etc. Remember the rubber fittings against the flange go on the inside of the pail…Watch it closely as you tighten the nut on this fitting – the silicon will have a lubricant affect and over tightening may cause the washer to slip out – you can tighten more if needed when the silicon is set.

Piping and Aeration

Installing the aeration system under the lids in the chamber of the roots, I did not want to use metal – In this system — there will be no contact of metal with solution period… So I came up with a push fitting using the plastic pex fittings with pex pipe – these are very cheap for me so I use them.

First if you put a pex (from now on it is assumed plastic) fitting in to the pipe it is not very snug. So if you want it more snugger…lol… you will need to wrap it with Teflon tape – BUT if you push it in to pex pipe it rips the Teflon tape and the seal is compromised. So – use a means by which to camber or bevel the inside edge of the pex pipe, I use the yellow reamer. I use the reamer to bevel the inside edge of the pipes to allow the Teflon taped fittings to insert in to the pex pipe with little damage to the seal. A little lubricant is ok like a very very very tiny amount twisted on to the tape on the fitting will encourage the seal but very very little is needed…It never hurts to expose the pipe to hot water to make it pliable.

Nutrient Pump

The nutrient pump in an old Wine Kitz primary fermenter, or just call it a 5 gallon bucket… After the plug and 3/4″ pex and an air hose is feed through the hole in the lid there is little room for anything else. There is a shut off valve on the riser off the pump I am going to use it for discharging the reservoir. In the yard there is a drop in elevation of at least 4 feet with out setting up a level and transom so siphon action should help speed this up, I will probably put in a shut off on the feed side to assist flushing out the nutrient solution every 10 to 14 days.

By http://www.hydroponicsonline.com











What Is Hydroponics? In Latin, the word hydroponics means literally "water working."
Hydroponics is the practice of growing plants in either a bath or flow of highly oxygenated, nutrient enriched water.

In soil, biological decomposition breaks down organic matter into the basic nutrient salts that plants feed on. Water dissolves these salts and allows uptake by the roots. For a plant to receive a well balanced diet, everything in the soil must be in perfect balance. Rarely, if ever, can you find such ideal conditions in soil due to the lack of organic matter left behind on the surface, contamination and biological imbalances.

With hydroponics, water is enriched with these very same nutrient salts, creating a hydroponic nutrient solution that is perfectly balanced. And since this hydroponic nutrient solution is contained, it does not harm our environment as does runoff from fertilized soil. Additionally, very little water is lost to evaporation in a hydroponic system, owing to its application in drought stricken areas.

To support the plants in a hydroponic system, an inert soil-free medium like fiber, sand or stone, may be used to anchor the roots. These hydroponic mediums are designed to be very porous for excellent retention of air and water that's necessary for a healthy plant - roots need to breathe too!

In addition to a perfectly balanced diet, hydroponic plants have their food and water delivered directly to their roots. This way, the energy normally used to develop long roots can be redirected to growing more plant, which is a great benefit indeed! With the proper exposure to natural sunlight or supplemental grow lights, your hydroponic plants .